Why do people wash their car or truck? It comes in contact with a lot of debris, like dirt, bugs, bird droppings, and salt. If left on the vehicle these deposits can eat way at the paint and finish, causing damage to the body of the vehicle. Running it through a car was or hand washing it helps eliminate and minimize the damage that could be caused.
Tanks are essential piece of life support equipment, and like any piece of life support requirement, they need to be cleaned and cared for before and after every dive. Odds are, if a tank has a catastrophic failure, it will happen while it is being filled, by you or a fill station operator. This is why a visual inspection is required every year and the hydrostatic test is preformed every 5 years.
Below is a list of actions all diver need to take to maintain and care for their tanks.
Always inspect the O-Ring on a yoke valve and DIN valve for debris.
Do not store them full for longed periods of time, 3 months or more.
Do not over fill them. Over filling causes metal stress.
Do not quick fill them. Fill no faster then 600psi per minute. Tanks should not be hot to the touch after filling.
Do not store empty, maintain at least 200psi in the tank at all times. Keeps moisture out.
Store them in an upright position. If there is moisture it will gather on the thickest part of the tank and be in the easiest position to clean.
Store in a shaded area, not in direct sun light.
Rinse it in fresh water after a dive, this includes rinsing the valve and the burst disk. Salt water corrodes everything.
If you have a boot on the tank, remove it periodically. Inspect the area and rinse it as well. Better yet, unless the tank has a round bottom, take it of and leave it off.
After a rinse and before filling give the valve a blast to ensure you remove any water that might have gathered in the valve. This goes for the fill station hose as well.
Handle with care. If you drop it or cause a gouge have it inspected.
If you notice the paint bubbling or raising up, have it inspected. Corrosion will cause the paint to bubble up.
Remove loose paint with a scraper or putty knife to expose the metal. Any sign of pitting, have it inspected.
Do not use paint remover, they cause heat and will damage the tank. Note: Catalina Cylinders has found that gel-type strippers work well in removing old paint and do not remove metal from the cylinder when properly used. Use gel strippers that are compatible with aluminum.
Do not repaint tanks, it can cover up damage and corrosion.
Aluminum tanks (3AL) remove any oxidation on the outside of the tank. It will look like a white film. Use a soft brush and hot water.
Steel tanks (3AA) remove rust with a wire brush. If there are any signs of pitting, have the tank inspected.
Remember, like any piece of life support equipment, tanks need to be cleaned and cared for.
Those interested in becoming scuba certified and experienced divers looking to continue their education, need to look at their options when choosing an Instructor.
The following is a list of tips and questions to use while conducting your research in choosing a scuba instructor. This applies to the new diver and those looking for continuing education.
Ask for references. If you know someone who is certified or has taken the training you are interested in, ask them about their instructor. Instructors prosper by word of mouth. For a student to give their instructor a recommendation is a great honor and should be the goal of every instructor. Ask them what they liked and disliked about the instructor.
How long have you been teaching? Experience is important but also a double edge sword. As a new dive student, you want someone who has experience dealing with new students and all the issues that may arise during class. An experienced instructor will have the tendency to be more proactive and solve issues before they arise. Plus, they have the experience needed to know how to adapt their teaching to fit your style of learning. However, an experienced instructor may be a little more complacent with the standards. There are those out there who may teach to the minimum standards and just want to get you through the class. When talking to your prospective new instructor some of this may come out. If you do not feel comfortable with them, move on and find someone else.
How many students have you certified? Time as an instructor does not mean more experience. The Scuba industry breeds many a part time instructors.
How many students have you certified at this level? If the instructor has certified very few students at this level, they may not be familiar with the curriculum and material. You want someone who knows the material & curriculum.
What type of continuing education have you done for yourself in the past year? “He who stops being better stops being good.”— Oliver Cromwell If an instructor stops learning, they stop being good, and may become complacent. Taking classes challenges the instructor to do better. Thinking one knows all they need to know can lead to disaster.
How many hours is the class? This is not an easy question but one that must be asked for economical reasons. A beginner, class does not need to take 101 hours. However, the more hours of training, in theory, the more information being conveyed and time to master the skills. The real question comes down to what is the minimum number of hours. Usually, smaller classes need less time.
How many people will be in my class? Generally, any more than 8 people in a pool session is probably overcrowding a class. Lower numbers are better for you.
What type of diving do you do for fun/ when was the last time? If an instructor does not take the time to dive for himself, he will not be as fun to learn from. An instructor must have passion. You want someone who enjoys diving for the sake of diving. Also, if you are looking for advance classes you want an instructor who regularly engages in that type of diving. For example: If you want to take a deep diving specialty course, you do not want an instructor who has not been past 100 feet in the past 2 years.
After talking with the potential instructor, ask yourself:
Was the instructor patient? If not or they talked down to you, while answering these questions, they will probably have the same trait during class. You want a patient instructor that will allow you to learn at your speed.
Would I be happier learning from a man or woman? This is up to you, Poor instructors are not limited to one or the other. However, since this is a physical sport, you may want someone with the same physical concerns as you.
Would I let this instructor take my loved ones underwater? If the answer is no, move on and find one that you would. There are inherent risks in scuba diving; you want someone you can trust. Scuba diving is a lifetime of adventure. Finding the right mentor and role model is essential in developing your dive path.
NOTE: This is a conglomerate of articles I have read and my own views. I intentionally took out the dynamic that the dive store itself adds to picking an instructor.
The yoke fitting is the “standard” fitting that comes on most regulators and most tank valves. A yoke is also called an “A-Clamp” or an “international” fitting.
What is DIN?
(Deutsches Institut für Normung) DIN is a screw in fitting. Instead of clamping onto valve, it screws into it. There are two types of DIN: Five thread 232 BAR and seven thread 300 BAR; both have the same threading, but a 300 BAR valve is deeper. A 300 BAR regulator will fit into either a 300 BAR or a 232 BAR DIN fitting. However, the 232 BAR regulator will not work on a 300 BAR cylinder as it will not screw all the way in.
Why DIN?
DIN is “safer”. That is, the ‘O’ ring is captured inside the valve and it is very hard for it to blow or squeeze out. DIN is cleaner, meaning there is no screw knob sticking out the back of the valve, a knob that can be entangled on something or even sheared off. The only problem with a DIN regulator is that they are not standard. When a diver goes on vacation, they are most likely to get a yoke valve tank. So what should you do, have a yoke adaptor.
How do you convert your regulator?
The easiest way is to buy your regulator with a DIN fitting. Most regulators are available with DIN as an option at no extra cost, but you will have to order it. Most dive shops do not carry regulators with DIN. If you have a yoke regulator, you can have it converted. A conversion kit may cost $50 or more. Your dive shop can do the installation, it is a very simple procedure.
What is a pro-valve?
Nowadays, the bulk of US cylinder comes with pro-valves. These are DIN valves in which the manufactures place a small “insert” into the valve to make it into an yoke valve! All you have to do is remove this insert with a hexagonal key and what is revealed is a 5 thread DIN fitting. Inserts only come in 5 threads, so you cannot convert a 7 thread 300 BAR valve to A-Clamp. Keep the insert in your save a dive kit. You may need it if the fill station does not have a DIN filling whip or you want to use your cylinder with a yoke regulator.
What About Diving Overseas?
The Caribbean is the only place where getting a DIN cylinder is just about impossible for normal recreational diving. Any place frequented by mainly American divers may be limited to yoke. DIN will dominate anywhere visited regularly by Europeans, especially the Germans. In those areas, you will have to ask for a yoke valve. If you have converted your regulators from yoke to DIN then you should have an adaptor and you can dive either tank.
Obtaining your Open Water Certification is a great achievement. It does not allow you to dive anytime anywhere. Upon completion, you are certified to dive no deeper then 60 feet, and you should only dive in conditions similar to or better then the ones you were trained in. There are places you can and will go, that will not check your certification level. You may get by for a while, but, why risk it? Look at your Open Water certification like a driver’s permit. It gives you the ability to learn to dive.
Going beyond your open water class to take advance and or specialties, enhances your skills and knowledge, under the supervision of a dive professional. This allows you to be more comfortable diving in different condition, be that at night or inside a wreck. It is all about awareness: of yourself, others and the environment in which you are diving.
Divers Progression:
Phase 1: Open Water Divers are focused on themselves, developing new skills and learning new information. This is why new divers seem unaware of events that go on around them.
Phase 2: Upon entering the Adventures in Diving, or a specialty course, the diver becomes taskorientated and their awareness broadens. Working with an instructor, the diver gains new dive skills, gains familiarity with new environments and new equipment, such as lights, lift bags, reels, cameras, DPVs, etc.
Phase 3: This is the Rescue level. At a minimum, the diver has logged 20 dives and has gained more confidence with skills, equipment and the environment. This allows them to look outward, at other divers. The diver becomes conscious of things that could lead to problems and is ready to learn how to deal with emergencies.
Phase 4: Referred to as the self-actualization phase. It is training beyond rescue, which leads to the Master Scuba Diver rating. It is the highest non-leadership rating a diver can obtain. Master Scuba Diver is awarded to persons who standout as skilled divers with a firm background in a variety of specialties.
Phase 5: Leadership, when a diver chooses to follow the professional path of training. At this point in a divers career they are ready to be a role model and a leader. Divers who choose to become a professional, widen their focus to supervising other divers and passing on their skills and knowledge.
(The above information is bases on the PADI model as well as other organizations.)
This journal is strictly my perspective. It is meant to be a way to document my diving while here in Japan.
We arrived in Japan at the end of July. Because of logistics and work schedule, I have not gotten to do much diving. So, as part of this journal I wanted to add a few things I have learned about Japan since arriving.
To tell you the truth, before coming to Japan it had never been on my list of places to visit. Now, I am so glad I did it and would not change it for anything. Before we arrived we did a lot of on-line research, the problem is, there is not a lot of up to date information.
Before traveling to Japan there are a few things you should know. Knowing is half the battle after all. There are many misconceptions about Japan. Many things you will only understand once you are here. A few things to remember are:
The Japanese culture is a polite culture. They will go out of their way to help you.
Many speak English, at least a little.
May signs have English on them: Mass Transit, road signs, even some billboards.
Most restaurants have English menus, you just need to ask.
There are no substitutions or special orders in restaurants. You get what is on the menu or you can order something else.
When walking it is rude to do anything else: No eating, drinking, smoking, texting, or talking on the phone.
There are no trashcans on the streets. If you have trash, you will have to carry it back to your domicile. Near, vending machines there is usually a trash can. See previous item.
A Note About Diving: There are a few thing one should understand before diving the Izu Peninsula and most likely, anyplace in Japan. There are facilities at most, if not all dive sites. They provide a range of services, which will be addressed. The facilities at the dive site are just that, facilities, not stores. Some rent gear but for the most part do not sale any. They are there to facilitate diving and cater to dive instructors and shops. Some have instructors on staff but not all. There are facility fees, which are well worth it. Tanks are provided and bringing your own, is not an option. Sometimes there is a rental fee for weights. All dives must be done with a dive professional. There are no exceptions, at least as far as I have found so far. Hot tubes are very common at dive facilities. Since the nitrogen exposure is fairly low there seems to be no issues.
14 Oct 2017
Location: Kumoni, Izu Peninsula
Facility: Kumomi Seaside House. The facilty provides changing room, showers, hot water for tea or whatever, gear rental, rinse tanks, gear drying area, as well as hot tubes.
Type: Boat. The boats are like a taxi service. You have a designated time to board, the boat then drops off the divers and picks ups the ones on the surface. You have to be at the drop off buoy or you may not be picked up. Divers do a roll back to enter the water. These boats are unique, in that, they have a 4 diver lift on the back. They lower the lift, the divers stand on the platform, fins on and the lift takes them out of the water. The divers then walk onto the boat.
Conditions: Water Temp 74-75 degrees, vis: 40-50 feet. Max depth around 60ft.
Dive one was a large rock island about 200 meters from the dock. Far enough that you would not want to swim it but close enough you could if you had to. The dive was mostly volcanic rock, and soft corals. Clown fish, angel fish, butterfly fish, file fish, goby, parrot fish, surgeon fish, trigger fish, wrasse.
Dive 2 was along a wall. Better topography then dive one and a lot more life. This area is in the fishing zone and it is obvious. On this dive there was a large net across part of the bottom. (My understand is that, the facilities pay the fishery to use the area and they do not fish it.)
15 Oct 2017
Location: Koganezaki Beach, Izu Peninsula
Facility: Very nice, with lots of tables inside and out for eating or teaching. Large staging area, lots of rinse tanks and drying area. Rental gear, bathrooms, changing and shower rooms. Hot tubes with a great view of Mt. Fuji.
When diving here it is best to have them pick your group up at the public parking lot at the top of the hill. The path/road to the facility is steep, small and hazardous. You can also walk down as well.
Type: Beach. There is only one entry and exit. It has a nice concrete path and handrail. However, once it meets the water is can be slippery.
Dive 1 & 2: Both dive we along a wall type formation. Lots of soft corals and anemones. Lots of juveniles here as well.
This is a great site, I cannot wait to go back in the summer.
12 Nov 2017
Location: San Diego, California
Facility: Marissa Charters. No physical building, just the boat. The web site is great and easy to navigate. If you need rental gear, fill in the on-line form and it will be on the boat when you arrive. They provide good snacks and lunch. On this day, the Captain had made chili, it was perfect for the cool day that it was. Type: Boat: The boat is set up well and even has a compressor on board. Between dives, you only need to remove your regulator so they can fill the tank. This day was a 3 tank dive. We double dipped on the HMCS YUKON and one on the Ruby E. Conditions: Water Temp 61-50 degrees, vis: 20-30 feet.
-HMCS YUKON – Depth: ~ 70ft-105ft
-RUBY E WRECK – Depth: ~65ft – 85ft
Both wrecks had nice growth and a good amount of life on them. Penetration would be possible but I did very little since it was my first time on the wrecks and I was solo diving. I was not equipped.
The 7mm suit was good but at the end of each dive I was getting cold. I will be sure to pack my dry suite next time. In the summer it is not as cold, and you can get warm between dives. On this day the sun was not participating.
26 Nov 2017
Location: Misakimachi Jogashima
Facility: Jogashima Dive Center (JDC). The Cente is in a new two story bulding. Upstairs is the classroom, main office/check in area. This is a strictly no shoe area. Leave them at the door, not blocking the door. Down stairs there are changing room, showers, bathrooms,hot water for tea or whatever, and gear rental to include dry suit rental (not a common piece of rental gear) The rinse tanks, gear drying area, hot tubes and a shallow pool is located across the street. Parking is in a paid lot ajacent to the center. Here you can do boat dives and or shore dives. Not much of a shore, there are steps up and over the retaining wall, with a small area for a shore entry. This area is great for training, as it has buoys, shallow and semmi confined. For the boat, the shop loads your gear on a truck and transports to the dock, divers ride about two minutes, in a van. The tanks are marked per group, so you know what tanks are who’s. This is important since many groups do two boart dives and the gear ramainds at the dock. When the group signs in, the dive leader tells the shop how many divers and dives they plan to do.
Type: Boat. The boats are a little different, are two rows of benches that the divers straddle facing the bow. On this day, it was very windy, so the dives were in the area between the island and the mainland. Giant stride off, not a lot of fun with side mount, given the limited space on the boat. Getting back on was also an event. Taking a tank off and handing it up was really the only choice. I will not do side here again.
Conditions: Water Temp 68-62 degrees, vis: 40-50 feet. Max depth around 70ft.
Both dive were on a formation kind of figure eight shaped. The dive was mostly volcanic rock, and soft corals. Clown fish, angelfish, parrot fish, triggerfish, wrasse.
The dive professional here leave a color weight near something of interest. It is common to see small pink or white lead sinks.
17 Dec 2017
Location: Futo Harbor
Facility: Not a lot. Changing room, with showers. No rental gear. There is a public bathroom, but not part of the facility. Lots of rinse tanks and drying area. Hot tube, which are made form some old boats, very cool. Parking is at a premium here. There is parking in front of the faculty or at the beach area. Still not a lot.
Type: Beach. Dive 1 is a beach type entry with an easy in and out. The reef was active: soft coral, eels, Rockfish to name a few. There were a few good looking Nudibranch. Max depth about 65 feet. Temp 61-63
Dive 2 was more of a pier type entry with stairs and a walkway. It is a bit of a walk from the facility but they have a truck that can transport your gear, if needed. Nice large concrete pad and a bathroom facility. Same type of reef and marine live. Lots of little stuff. Max depth about 65 feet. Temp 61-63.
13-14 Jan 2018
Location: Guam
Water Temp 82/Air Temp 88.
Facility: Axe Murder Tours (not excited about the name, but a well run operation) is a full service dive shop. Sales, rental, equipment service, air fills, and instruction. The price for a 2 tank boat dive is $150. Yes, kind of pricey but it includes gear and a guide. Even if you do not use their gear, the price stays the same. If you are only coming for a day or two of diving rental gear is the way to go. All the gear looked well-maintained and good quality. What I saw was: Zeagle Ranger BCD, Aqualung Regulators, Atomic Fins, Aqualung Mask.
Note about the reef. The reef on the Philippines Sea side of Guam is about 80% bleached. The Pacific side is not as bad.
Type: Boat. The boat is docked 10-15 minutes down the road from the shop.
Dive 1: Cocos West. Because of the weather, we went south for almost an hour. The reef here is extremely bleached. Not a lot of living coral here, but you can tell that at one time it was a large reef. Not much life either. The water was very clear, the visibility was 100 feet. Max depth about 50ft.
Dive 2: Pet’s Reef. We came back to the north. This put us to about a 15 minute ride back to the dock after the dive. This reef was a little nicer. More life and more coral, not a lot but still more. We saw a black tip shark, maybe a 7 footer. Hard to tell, it never came very close. Vis was 100ft. Max depth was about 56ft.
Day 2: Dive 1 Toguan Caves. Conditions were not great so we did not enter what is really a swim through. Vis was low as this site is at the mouth of a small river. There was a lot of life and more coral. Lots of Nudibranch. Max depth 55ft. Vis 15-20ft.
Dive 2 Anae Caves. Again low vis but better then the first dive. Max Depth 45ft. Vis 20-30ft.
I do not see Guam as a dive destination. If the reef were not so bleached it would be a great place. However, if you are traveling in region and find yourself on a layover or can plan a few days, Guam is worth the trip. The island is one of the cleanest I have been on, this after being told it was dirty. The mountains have great scenic hikes and the beach views are spectacular. We drove around (literally) the island in a few hours. There are some interesting places and historic sites to see. We will go back, we have to check-out the shore dives. A word of caution: It is not a cheap place, in general things are more expensive then one would think. At the time, gas was over $4 a gallon. Food and drink are also a little more then you would expect. A cup of coffee or even a glass of tea runs around $2.75. Keep in mind that restaurants include a 10% gratuity in the bill since it is not an Asian custom to tip.
1 March 2018
Location: Kwajalein Atoll
Facility: Dive Kwaj/ Kwajalein Dive Club. Diving on Kwaj is not like any other olace you will dive. First to be on the atoll you have to have permission. The atoll is a military base, so you have to be there for work or be sponsored. If you are gong to be on the atoll for any amount of time, it is best to join the club. This gives you unlimited tanks use. Before anyone is allowed to dive, they must first do an orientation dive with a club member. This is a rule of the garrison and assures that everyone who dive here a competent and, hopefully, will not damage the reef. Dive Kwaj is a full service PADI facility with equipment sale, service and rental as well as a full range of PADI classes. Scuba Pro and Aqualung are the main equipment brands they carry. Prices are in line with any dive shop you will find in the States, and if they do not have it, they can order it. Rental gear is all in very good condition.
Type: Beach. Ski Boat Area. There is a small pavilion here with a rinse tank, round picnic table and place to hang up your gear. The entry was a set of stairs up and over the breaker wall. Easy entry and the water was calm and warm. We entered during high tide and the vis was not very good, only 20-30 feet. This dive site is unique in that there is reef, and 2 wreaks that are easily dived in one dive.
Deck Gun
The wreaks are Japanese Patrol boats sunk in February 1944 during the battle for Kwajalein, (at least that is my assumption). The coral in the is are, although not very colorful, is in good condition. There are a few places that have storm damage, and bleaching is at a minimum here. Lots of hard coral, some soft and lots juveniles. Did see a few bigger fish, but was told most of the bigger creatures hangout on the wall off shore. It is also not uncommon to see black tip and white tip sharks. They come into the marina area in the morning and later in the day for a free hand out as fishermen are cleaning there catches.
Conditions: Max depth about 45ft with an average of about 30ft Temp 82.
21 March 2018
Location: Guam: Gab Gab Beach
Water Temp 82/Air Temp 88.
Facility: Gab Gab is on the navy base. The entry area has bathrooms, 6 out door showers for rinsing off your gear and yourself. There is also plenty of shade.
Type: Beach dive. The entry is a set of stairs that lead down to a fairly flat area for putting on fins. The rocks are a little slippery, so reg in mouth
is a good practice.
Dive 1: We swam out about 50 meters before we tied off our flag. On the way out we averaged about 55 feet. The reef slopped down to a much greater depth. The reef here was in better shape and not as bleached. On the way back we averaged about 30 feet. The reef was in much better condition and there was lots of life. Lots of small canyons full of juveniles. Visibility was 100feet.
21-28 April 2018
Location: Chuuk Lagoon
Facility: Blue Lagoon and Odyssey Live aboard.
I spent the first night at the Blue Lagoon and did two dives with the dive shop there. The shop is well stocked with t-shirts and souvenir things. They have a full line of rental gear, with air and nitrox available. Their boats hold 6, maybe 8 at the most. I only did one day (2 dives) with Blue lagoon. We came back in between dives. The ride out each time was 20-30 minutes.
We boarded the Odyssey on that Sunday evening. I have stayed on both the Truk Master (Dec 2016) and now the Odyssey. Both offer great service and the crews are great. Truk Master is a smaller boat. Originally, we had a full boat on the Master, but due to weather and other events only about half of our group made it. I cannot imagine how cramped we would have been with a full boat. The Odyssey is a bigger boat and you have more space. Cabins, dinning area, everything is just larger and a little more spacious. I did 18 dives in 5 days and I did not do any night dives. I did not dive on day six because my flight was so early the next day (0200hrs). The wrecks of Chuuk are amazing but you can tell the ocean is claiming them. Also, people keep moving artifacts. I am told it is mostly the local dive guides so that their clients can see them, but whoever is doing it, it needs to stop. Uncovering them of the silt is okay, but moving them out onto the deck or breaking open ammunition boxes is just wrong.
Dollar per dive, I think that the live aboard is the best deal. Diving from shore is not cheap. Between
Deck Gun San Fransisco Maru
accommodations, food and easy of diving, the live aboard is the hands down winner.
Conditions all week were great, very little rain and lots of sun. Keep in mind, it rain a lot in the area all the time. 138.8 in of rainfall per year, or 11.6 in per month. The driest weather is in February with an average of 6.4 in.
Water temp was 84-82 degrees.
25 May 2018
Location: Okinawa, Japan
Facility: Tsunami Scuba.
Type: Shore
ENTRANCE
Site: Toilet Bowl
Condition: Vis 100+ Water Temp: 85-75 Degrees, Air Temp 85.
The name comes from the water movement at certain times of day, it looks like the water in a bowel as it swirls. The entry and exit were adventures. Hard sole boots (and gloves) are highly recommended as the lava rock can be extremely sharp.
The dive is a wall dive, more or less. Lots of juveniles and some hard coral. The area is used by locals to fish on the shore. There is a lot of old fishing line and hooks. We did clean some of it up but it would take multiple dives to clean it up. Good dive but lots of walking and not on even ground.
Sidemount has been around since the 1960s. It originated in the UK with sump divers. In the 70s it was adapted for the Florida caves, mainly in systems with small passages. The popularity of sidemount did not emerge until recently. More and more equipment manufactures and training organizations have embraced sidemount. The question is, “What is sidemount and why do it?”
Sidemount is a configuration which has tank is mounted alongside the diver, not on the back of the diver, a benefit while diving in a confined space such as a wreck penetration.
Sidemount use is growing with technical divers and is becoming more popular with recreational divers.
The benefits are:
Flexibility
Single tanks are often easier to find and to transports. When diving in remote locations, the transportation is considerably less work. Sidemount equipment is also considerably lighter, and less bulky than back-mount rigs. A diver can also use whatever size tank is available. Duel 40s are great for recreational diving.
Accessibility
Sidemount diver has direct access to, and observation of, the regulators and tank valves of their cylinders. This allows for instant problem solving without ‘behind the head’ shut-down drills that require a higher level of mobility, flexibility and freedom to operate.
Streamlining
As stated sidemount places the cylinders under the diver’s armpits, in line with their body. This decreases resistance (improving air consumption and reducing fatigue)and lets the diver pass through smaller restrictions, if needed. Removing tanks and putting them in front, allows the diver to pass through very small passages and holes when performing a penetration dive, and it is just fun to do.
Safety
Direct access to life-support equipment (regulators, first-stages and valves) improves efficiency and speed of valve shut-down procedures, allows immediate identification of problems and provides the diver with quick access to safety procedures; such as regulator swapping (between cylinders), valve-‘feathering’ to access gas within a cylinder whose regulator has malfunctioned or even breathing directly from a tank valve, if you are having a really bad day.
Having the tanks next to the diver’s body, and beneath the armpits, serves to protect valves and regulator first-stages from collision, impact and abrasion damage, or accidental shut-down. It also significantly reduces the risk of entanglement behind the diver.
Comfort
Sidemount offers greater stability, trim and control in the water. It is also less physically demanding to carry, and get into. The ability to attach, remove and replace cylinders while in the water allows the diver to avoid carry heavy back-mounted doubles. As well as reduced physical exertion when conducting regulator shut-down procedures, which is a major benefit to divers who suffer from shoulder or back injuries that reduces mobility.
Redundancy
Increased gas supply allows for longer dives and gas redundancy. Using nitrox and a nitrox computer allows for more no stop diving. Diver also carry their own back up air supply. Independent tanks provide true gas redundancy.
Side Note: Monkey diving is the term used to describe the use of a sidemount rig, using a single cylinder. It takes a little getting used to but easy to do.I prefer it when not teaching.
Have you ever walked out of the mall or grocery store, and not remember were you parked? You were sure you parked by that tree, or was it that tree? I am sure it has, even if for only a brief moment of doubt. This recently happened to me, only it was a boat and it was not where I left it. What would you do? Are you prepared such an event?
On a recent trip to Florida, we were diving on the Spiegel Grove. The Spiegel is 510ft long Dock Landing Ship. It sets at 140+ feet up to about 65 feet. It is a world class wreck dive.
There was a mixture of recreational divers and my Tec class. The plan was for us to do one long dive with a run time of 70 minutes while the other divers did two recreational dives. We splashed last and would be on our deco stops when the others started their second dive. The captain had to anchor to buoy eight; it is located on the bow, as all the other good balls were in use. The current was fairly strong and we had to pull ourselves down. Luckily the current was going almost bow to aft. This allowed us to use the structure as protection. The dive was uneventful and my two student accomplished all of their skill with enough time remaining to do a little sight seeing. At 47 minutes we were back on the accent line. When we first arrived I heard a motor run for a few minutes, this is not out of the ordinary. On sights like the Spiegel, boats come and go often. Some were around 80 feet I looked up at the surface. I could not see the boat but that too is not uncommon. Around 50 feet I looked again, and this time I could see the line from the buoy hanging free. Curious! Thoughts like: Is this the right accent line? No, I am sure this is the right line. Did someone get hurt and the boat had to do an emergency return to dock? No, I did not hear the emergency recall. What if we did not hear it and they knew we had a long deco. My son was diving with the other group, what if it was him! No, that is not it, that is just crazy talk! So what is the deal? Maybe they just moved, but why? Who knows, but that is what I convinced myself of. We still had deco to contend with and my job was to monitor my two students. I could not change the fact that the boat was gone.. After all of our computers cleared, I had the other two divers stay down while I had a look. I was right the boat just moved to a different buoy and was sort of in the direction of the current. I called up the other two and we started a fairly good surface swim, maybe 100 yards. It was harder than the dive itself.
The captain moved so the recreational divers would have an easier decent and ascent. They told him that if he did not move they would not do another dive. I have been on this boat a number of times and they knew our skill set and that when we surfaced we would see the boat.
What if we had come up and the boat had been gone, for whatever reason? Or like another dive I was on, you get blown off the accent line and come up away from the boat and on the wrong side of the current. Would you be prepared? There are three elements to being prepared. They go hand in hand and cannot stand on their own. The elements are safety equipment, training and mental preparedness.
In open water class you are taught to inflate your BCD, relax and signal the boat. Leave your mask on and regulator or snorkel in place, and condition dependent, drop your weights. How do you signal the boat? Hand signals are great if you are close enough and the crew sees you. This is not always the case. During your open water class your instructor told you that you should always carry an audible signaling device, at least I hope they did. A simple plastic whistle, like the one that comes on most BDC will work, if it is there. You can also purchase better ones. Check with your local dive shop, they will have a recommendation. There are also devices like the “DiveAlert” that goes on the LP hose of your BCD inflater. They are loud and sound like a fog horn. Be careful, I would hold it away from your ears when you us it.
You also need to carry a visual signaling device. A colored fin works, not very well, but can do in a pinch as long as it has color to it, not blue or black. A surface marker buoy (SMB) is a wise choice. Not only can it be used for signaling but you can deploy it while still underwater. This not only signals the boat of your location but also act as an accent line during a blue/brown water accent. An SMB can also act as a flotation device, if needed. A good SMBs will have a reflective strip on it and a way of attaching a light/chemical stick to it for night recoveries. Tall is also better, as it is easier to see in rough sea. No matter what type you get, practice with it. If you have never deployed one as part of a class, get someone, preferably an instructor, to show you how to do it from 15-20 feet with a reel or spool. This will allow you to do your safety stop in a controlled manner. Then practice, practice, practice, and be sure to keep it in working order. A signaling mirror is another choice, small, easy to carry and easy to maintain. Read the direction when you get it, do not wait until you are floating at sea to learn how to use it. A chemical stick or small strobe is also good for night time emergencies. However, chemical lights do have a shelf life and your strobe does need good batteries. Two other choices, although not as popular are pen flares and dyes. Both have a shelf lifes and will need to be check before you dive. Of course, read the instruction before you get in the water. Divers Alert Network (DAN) offers a 6 foot SMB with a reflective strip, a mirror, whistle, and a light in a storage pocket. I think this is the best deal out there, ask you dive store or instructor about them. Carry your safety SMB and or signaling device of your choice on every dive. The one time you do not have them will be the one time you need them, I speak from experience.
Training, yes it all comes down to training and continuing education. Learn how to use your safety equipment. Many instructors are including the use of a SMB and reel in their advance class, if not, ask. If you are already advance certified then I would suggest a wreck or deep class were your instructor should include it, ask if not. It is also common in wreck diving to mark your accent line so you know which one is yours. It is always embarrassing to pop up on the wrong boat. It is funny, as long as it is not you. The introduction to technical diving course also stresses the deployment of the SMB from depth, and you will do it on every dive.
Mental preparedness is a must. Do not stress, visualize the dive and what to do if something does go wrong. Ask the captain and crew a few questions: What is the diver recall signal and when would they initiate it? What are the procedures for a diver who does come up off the boat and cannot swim back?
Maybe you will never be blown off a wreck or come up away from the boat. I can name the hand full of times that it has happened to me. Never say never. Check your safety equipment, have the proper training and be mentally prepared. Instructors are not just teaching you how to dive. One of our main goals is to teach you what to do when a dive goes bad, skills and drills. Anyone can jump in the water, swim around and get out. It is when something goes wrong that your training pays off. It must be a muscle memory reaction, no thinking, just doing.
No matter what happens or the reason, stay calm, let your training take over and remember, as long as you are breathing you have no problems.
For those of us in the north, Summer is almost here and dive season is upon us. What should you do? Hopefully over the winter you have kept some type of physical fitness level and you have been able to go diving. If not, it is not too late. Swimming is the best exercise for diving. You do not need to be Michel Phelps. Start out slow and with a short distance. Like any exercise, build up to long times and greater distance. You may be limited on when and how often you can swim. Also, if you travel, it may not be convenient. If you can run, running is, in my opinion, a great choice. You can do it anywhere and anytime. At the least, walk a mile or so at a pace that makes you breathe harder then you are now reading this article. Something is better the nothing. As always, check with your family doctor before you start any kind of exercise regime.
What else do you need to do? Check out all of your gear, do any maintenance that may need to be done: Tanks vis’d, Regulator serviced, check your mask and fins for damage, especially the straps. Check you BCD, be sure it still fits, you know, winter weight and all. Check all the valves and releases. The inflator and deflator are high on the list also. Then, GET WET! At a minimum, jump in the pool with you gear and get reacquainted. Visit you local dive shop and sign up for a refresher. This can be done with an instructor or divemaster. They will work with you to get your skill back up to speed. Sign up for a trip, be it local or someplace warmer. The key is, GET WET!
Sometime around your 16th birthday, you went to your parents and said “I want to go get my driver’s permit”. Now, unless they had been living under a rock, they saw it coming. Since they knew you were going to ask, I am sure they had been evaluating you and how they were going to handle it. But what made you say, “You are ready?” Was it simply because you were of age? Did you step back and evaluate yourself: your maturity, responsibility, reflexes, attention span? No, you were the right age and you had the right to drive! If you had stepped back and looked, you may have seen that you were not ready. For sure, you were not ready to drive 75mph down the interstate during rush hour, eating a cheeseburger and changing the radio station. (Not that I would ever do that.) Like driving, technical diving takes a level of maturity, responsibility and multi-tasking. Technical diving is not a right, it is an earned privilege. Just like with driving, a mistake can mean you life.
We are going to talk about your role in deciding to start. What you should do before you start.
The question is, when do you know you are ready to start the tec path? Only you will know when you are ready. There are no hard set rules, there are requirements or prerequisites but they do not mean you are ready. For instance, one organization requires 25 dives while another requires 50 for the equivalent classes. Does that mean you are ready, I think not. Here are a few recommendations for you in no particular order.
It is all about the skills and drills. You will be exposed to many new skills and some of your old ones will be polished. Before you start, you should be able to do at least the following in your openwater equipment: 1) While hovering horizontal: remove and replace your mask, without changing depth by more then 3 ft. 2) Share air while remaining horizontal. 3) Swim at least 30ft, horizontal, on one breath (CESA). 4) Swim at least 50ft without your mask on. 5) While hovering horizontal, remove and replace your BCD, best to do this in a pool. These are not requirements to start but being able to do these skill will make your class much more enjoyable for you and your instructor.
Once you can do those skill, find a set of doubles. Rent or borrow different types, to include the rigs if you do not have one. Gear configuration is covered in class, but you need to find a rig that suits you and works. Then, dive. Get a feel for the rig and the tanks. There are three times in a divers training when they relearn how to dive. Diving with doubles, a dry suit, and with a re-breather. Doubles have a different buoyancy and trim characteristics then a single tank. Double 80’s are not the same as 104’s. Once you get use to one set, changing to a different set is like changing cars. You will have to make a few adjustments to the seat, and mirrors, get a feel for the breaks and steering but nothing you should not be able to overcome fairly quickly. If you are diving in an area were a drysuit is a must, dive it, with the doubles.
Do your research! Know what to expect when you walk-in to class. These classes are an investment in time and money. Do not think you are going to walk in, do a couple of dives, and get a card. You will need more gear then you have as an open water diver, and it will take more time then your openwater class ever did. Do the time and find out what is involved. While doing your research, find an instructor. The same rules apply as with finding an openwater instructor.
Check your mental fitness. Are you ready to learn new skill? Are you ready to be taught and evaluated? If you are the kind of person that thinks they are dong everything the right way, you may want to re-think your decision. You must be open to constructive criticism and ready to take it at any time. Egos have no place under the water, and must be left on at the surface, on shore, and preferably at home.
Check you physical fitness. Technical diving is more strenuous then openwater diving. If you have any health issues get cleared by your doctor, you may want to find a hyperbaric doctor. DAN maintains a list and will steer you in the right direction. If you get winded walking a flight of stair you may also want to reconsider. Carrying a set of doubles and a stage up an incline or even the ladder on the boat is strenuous. Make sure you are fit, you do not need to run a marathon but , you need to be able to carry and swim with all the gear involved. Discuss this with your instructor for more guidance.
Finally or first, start slow. Enroll in an Intro/Intro type class. Not all training agencies call them Introduction to Technical diving. But they have something along the same lines. This class will show you the basics and give you a feel for what is involved. It is also a great indicator if you are ready. If nothing else you will leave the class with new skills that will make you a better diver.
In closing, when are you ready? When you’re ready. Start slow, take an intro class. Do your research, know what to expect and find an instructor. Check your fitness, mental and physical. Get in the water, it is all about the skills and drills. Only you will now when you are ready. Do not figure it out at 160ft, in 40 degree water, after you have a regulator malfunction.
I have been a Scuba instructor now for a little over 15 years. I have been an active instructor, with the exception of a year or two break due to reasons beyond my control., In the scope of things, this may not seem like a large feat. However, I have noticed that a great number of people I taught with over the years have stopped teaching. I am sure there are lots of reasons for it and every reason is acceptable. What has kept me teaching? It is the “ah ha” moments.
An “ah ha” moment, for me, comes in two varieties. One is in the classroom when there is a student who is struggling with a concept. They just do not get it! Then, while you are explaining it to them, you can see the light come on and they get it. The second occurs in the pool or during open water training. They are struggling with a new skill or have just decided they cannot or will not do it. You convince them that they can do it, and then you find the technique that works for them. When they do the skill, you can see the joy or relief in there face.
I start every open water pool session by having the students breath from the regulator and just put there face in the water while in the shallow end. I let them breathe like this for a minute or so. I then congratulate them on doing the “hardest” skill–No Mask Breathing. I explain they will do it again but now we all know they can do it. So, like all classes I started my last class the same way. We then move on to partial flood and clear and total flood and clear. Near the end of the pool session for that day, I announce that we are now going to remove our mask, breath for one minute and then replace and clear the mask. I could see the utter terror on one students face, we will call him Joe. (Note: student was 12 years old) We all descended and as always, I demonstrated the skill. My divemaster noticed how nervous Joe was and moved next to him. I love a vigilant divemaster! While I was evaluating other students, I would glance over at Joe. The closer I got, the more upset he appeared. I told him to wait as I went on to the remainder of the students. I then sent the class, minus Joe, to swim around under the supervision of the DM. Joe and I surfaced. To say he was upset was an understatement. He had already convinced himself that he could not do it. Drawing up on my years of teaching and of being a father, I convinced him he could. After repeating the first experience of no mask breathing, we descended and Joe did the skill like he had been doing it for years. When he cleared his mask, you could see the smile on his face.
That was Joe’s “ah ha” moment and that is why I continue to teach.
Sidemount has been around since the 1960s. It originated in the UK with sump divers. In the 70s it was adapted for the Florida caves, mainly in systems with small passages. The popularity of sidemount did not emerge until recently. More and more equipment manufactures and training organizations have embraced sidemount. The question is, “What is sidemount and why do it?”
Sometime around your 16th birthday, you went to your parents and said “I want to go get my driver’s permit”. Now, unless they had been living under a rock, they saw it coming. Since they knew you were going to ask, I am sure they had been evaluating you and how they were going to handle it. But what made you say, “You are ready?” Was it simply because you were of age? Did you step back and evaluate yourself: your maturity, responsibility, reflexes, attention span? No, you were the right age and you had the right to drive! If you had stepped back and looked, you may have seen that you were not ready. For sure, you were not ready to drive 75mph down the interstate during rush hour, eating a cheeseburger and changing the radio station. (Not that I would ever do that.) Like driving, technical diving takes a level of maturity, responsibility and multi-tasking. Technical diving is not a right, it is an earned privilege. Just like with driving, a mistake can mean you life.